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This year the Portugieser is celebrating its 75th birthday, The entire case is brushed steel – polished surfaces would be ill-suited for this watch, with its understated demeanor and matte dial tones. Every part save the hairspring is machined in the Claret workshop. T0: pre-assembly (particularly placing jewels as well as steel pinastre).

Remind you of anyone? Perpetual Calendars have become such a common sight; it's easy to forget they were worn in pockets, not on wrists, less than 100 years ago. The dial is coated in smoky midnight blue (the Neuhausen am Rheinfall brand's signature) with a soft sunburst design bearing a silver hour rim.

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